Marrickville Pork Roll has earned a cult following for its bánh mì, which commands snaking lines outside its two Marrickville outposts. And the owners are expecting no less from their newest shopfront in Darling Square's Steam Mill Lane food precinct.

“We want people to be able to experience what a Marrickville Pork Roll is without having to travel to Marrickville,” says owner Roger Tran, the nephew of Marrickville Pork Roll’s original owner, Khiem Du.

Ingredients are delivered from its second Marrickville shop, which is home to the main kitchen, where all the baguettes are baked fresh daily and the 10-plus bánh mì elements are prepared: paté, mayonnaise, fresh and pickled vegetables, and the spicy chilli.

On the menu you’ll find almost everything from the other stores. There’s the original bánh mì thịt (pork roll) and other favourites such as the bánh mì nem nướng (barbeque-pork roll) and bánh mì gá (chicken roll). The only items not going to the CBD are the bánh mì bi (pork-skin roll) and the bánh mì nem chua (lemon-pork roll).

When asked what makes a Marrickville pork roll stand apart from the rest Tran says the family still can’t really put its finger on it. “We wouldn’t say it’s anything particular. It has just been a hit since day one.”

To give the brand a modern edge, so it fits in with the rest of Steam Mill Lane, Tran called on Sydney-based interior designer Tim Leveson to put in his touch on the hole-in-the-wall space. He has chosen to keep with the brand’s original red, white and black colour scheme but has added a neon-lit tiger to the ceiling of the store.

Tran says this new opening is it for now. “We were even hesitant to open up this one because we don’t want to dilute the brand.”

Marrickville Pork Roll Darling Square
Steam Mill Lane, Haymarket

Daily 7am–7pm

This article was updated on August 3, 2018. This article first appeared on Broadsheet on May 5, 2018. Menu items may have changed since publication.