Even though its owners, the Pavonis, are behind some of Sydney’s favourite Italian restaurants (including Ormeggio, Postino and Cibaria), Luisa Vineria has much more of a bar vibe than its siblings.

Although the food matches the lofty standards set by the other venues in the Pavoni stable, it’s a much snackier affair here behind the curvy, heritage-listed purple-and-pink Marie-Louise Salon facade on Enmore Road. There’s suppli al telefono – golden eggs of fried cacio e pepe risotto with a core of melty cheese – stretch telephone-cord-style when split. Anchovies or chicken liver pâté ride crostini, olives arrive with hunks of Parmigiano Reggiano, and the Naples specialty spaghetti alla nerano – swirled with fried zucchini – is turned into a frittata. Culaccia prosciutto arrives with zingy pickled green peaches.

On the drinks side, this “gintoneria and vineria” nails its brief. The lengthy list includes a five-part G&T section – featuring two house Luisa spirits – available as a standard 30-mil “Aussie shot” or a 50-mil “Italian nip”. Over 50 gins follow, separated by flavour profiles, available with a classic match (Long Rays Australian tonic) or its perfect match – which could mean Strangelove’s No 8, Long Rays citrusy tonic, Tassoni’s superfine or a rhubarb and smashed mandarin tonic. There’s a concise, playful cocktail menu, too. The umami-packed Olive You Tomato stars gin infused in turmeric olive oil and tomato cordial. There’s no by-the-glass wine list – just ask, the team might open something special.