Majestic Gourmet Grocers opened in early 2015. And as if accepting a challenge (it is already a fishmonger, delicatessen, fruiterer, cheesemonger, bakery, florist and cafe), it just expanded to include an in-house restaurant.

As the name suggests, the Majestic Harvest Restaurant is a comfortable, repurposed Art Deco-esque space on a site that in the past was a theatre.

“There are three things we hope for with the Majestic Harvest restaurant,” says co-owner Tim Reen. His business partner is Warren Landsman. “We want an evening restaurant experience within a beautiful space, to knock people’s socks off with great service and to serve amazing food.” If it were a theatre again, the applause would ring out.

Executive chef Steve Wellstead (formerly of Balmain’s The London) has been with the Majestic family since the beginning. Born in England, with a background in fine dining, he impressed the owners when he produced a braised-lamb gnocchi as part of his interview. “We knew he was the right chef with our first bite of that gnocchi,” says Reen.

It’s on the menu, and rewrites the recipe books on gnocchi. It’s full of lamb flavour, unctuous and unbelievably light, with a hint of peppery lemon. Another standout on the menu is the crisp pork ear with pork and pistachio terrine on a bed of cavolo nero.

A whole shoulder of lamb is available for two (“or perhaps three” says Landsman), spatchcock, grilled fish of the day and scotch fillet steak also all feature on the menu. While modest, the menu is sourced, cooked and presented to perfection.

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Dessert features Wellstead’s personal favourite: chocolate marmalade mousse cake. “It’s not death by chocolate,” he grins, “but almost.”

“Using quality product is core to us,” says Reen. “We want fresh, seasonal and where we can, local.”

Majestic Harvest Restaurant
49a New Canterbury Road, Petersham
(02) 8097 2201

Thu to Sat 6pm–11pm