At Young’s Palace – set in the former Raja and Teddy’s space – chef-couple Big Sam Young and Grace Chen are plating Chinese dishes that are unfussy and done well. It’s markedly different to their luxe Castlecrag dining room, S’more, known for $400 steaks, lobster-topped spaghetti and other bistro classics with an Asian bent.

Here, Westernised Chinese food stars – the casual, neighbourhood joint is an amalgamation of Chinatowns the couple have explored all over the world, from New York to Paris, Amsterdam and Sydney.

Snacks start the menu off, before a few soup options and a tight collection of proteins, with the likes of kung pao chicken, garlicky salt and pepper pork ribs, sweet and sour pork, honey king prawns, and black pepper beef. There are silky egg custards and a spanner crab egg foo young, plus noodles, rice and veggie dishes.