Vin-Cenzo’s is by the team behind Bar Copains, Bessie’s and Alma’s. It’s in the same space that once housed Bar Vincent – one of Darlinghurst’s most beloved restaurants. Decades before that, this building was also home to Tre Scalini, one of the go-to spots for Italian during the ‘80s in Sydney. Nods to both of those past lives abound throughout the space – from the artwork on the walls, to easter eggs on the menu.

Like its sibling venues, the brief here is all about shareable plates and good drinks. There’s a big line-up of stuzzichini and other Italian snacks, a handful of pastas and a few bigger dishes. It’s backed up by a rock-solid wine list. Service here is professional but fun – expect your paper tablecloth to be put to good use from the waitstaff.

Another thing being put to good use? Vin-Cenzo’s 3am license – a rarity for any venue in the area, let alone a restaurant.