Neil Perry’s Gran Torino is the quick-pivot Italian restaurant that replaced the chef’s Double Bay Cantonese diner Song Bird.

The ground floor takes after a classic Italian bar in all ways. That means Bellinis, Martinis and bitter vermouths, plus Campari and Aperol aplenty. All of these are primed for snacks and small plates.

The 100-seat dining room upstairs is the spot for antipasti, fresh pasta, grilled proteins and classic Italian desserts. A dedicated crudo list starts it off, before antipasti that ranges from stuffed olives and an artichoke and fennel salad to fritto misto di mare and prosciutto-topped gnocco fritto.

House-made pastas star – think tomatoey pici, buttery veal agnolotti and burnt butter pumpkin tortelli – alongside a secondi menu that runs the full gamut of Italian mains, with Perry’s signature elegance.