Behind a green elevator-style door waits a high-ceilinged space with vast marble columns and a grand piano. It was once the first Bank of Australia but the Bentley boys, Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt (behind some of Sydney’s most acclaimed restaurants like Bentley, Monopole, Yellow and King Clarence) have made it their own.

At the 100-seat Eleven Barrack, it’s old meets new with bespoke silk lanterns and a flashy purple column wrapped in concertinaed metal.

The food line-up leans into large Euro bistros and New York-style grills. A woodfire Marrone grill inherited with the space is ready for a selection of proteins – pork tomahawks and Murray cod, Wagyu T-bones and bone-in sirloins. For starters, fluffy ricotta dumplings riff on a classic Bentley dessert. Plus, there’s a tight pasta selection to support.