Hubert’s low ceilings, timber-panelled walls and candle-lit tables feel like they’ve been there forever. And yet, this convincing facsimile of a grand European restaurant circa World War II only opened in 2016. Behind this extravagant and ambitious facade there’s unmatched reverence for classic hospitality and notably un-classic French food.

This art deco drinks-and-dining complex has three seductive bars, but the heart and soul of the building is the spectacular ninth-floor restaurant. Take your time with a lengthy menu of seafood, pasta and protein-heavy mains, and a wine list highlighting French classics and new world naturals.

Restaurants all over Sydney have tried to copy Mr Wong’s refined Cantonese-led menu, its modern fit-out and the quality of its service, but none have been successful. Inside, a bank of barbequed ducks aren’t just great to look at: they’re plump, juicy and delicious. Likewise the delicate dumplings, which are some of the city’s best. Chef Dan Hong sets a benchmark that has the right amount of Aussie-Cantonese nostalgia.

Sydney’s fine dining benchmark. Tetsuya’s alumni (Dan Hong and Luke Powell, to name a few) have gone on to shape the city’s culinary landscape. They earned their stripes here first, plating-up a famous menu that includes the signature confit of Tasmanian ocean trout – one of Australia’s most iconic dishes. It’s all set within a serene Japanese-style interior.

Though the original Rockpool is now closed, the opulent steakhouse which bears its name is still the clear favourite in Neil Perry’s family of bars and restaurants. Despite being (slightly) more casual than the original, this is still one of Sydney’s premiere special occasion restaurants. That’s because Rockpool Bar and Grill epitomises Perry’s legacy of timeless dishes cooked with fastidiously-sourced ingredients.

Innovative Chinese-Australian fusion in a low-lit underground restaurant. More than a decade on, it remains one of the best places in Sydney to try the lesser-seen cuisines of China's Yunnan, Hunan and Jiangxi provinces. While Sichuan food is king here, the entire menu is stylish, vibrant and well-balanced.

The liberation of Paris is the theme behind this polished cocktail bar from the team behind The Lobo. Settle into sophisticated surrounds for rum and rye Old Fashioneds and French-influenced dishes with modern Australian flair.

A sexy wine bar from the team behind Love, Tilly Devine, where the pasta menu changes almost daily and comes supplied by its retail sibling, Fabbrica a few blocks away. You might order cavatelli with pippies and house-made pork sausage one day, and goat ragu mafaldine the next.

A solid lunchtime dining option in the CBD, with an alfresco plant-filled terrace and a whopping 900-kilogram wood grill.

Merivale’s opulent Japanese diner puts a modern spin on the country’s traditional cuisine. Take your seat at the white marble counter for a theatrical experience involving premium seafood, sake and no shortage of knife skills from the team of highly trained chefs.

A classic French brasserie experience from Merivale. The laneway setting already feels like a Parisian backstreet – but it’s the seafood platters and cote de boeuf that really take you there. You wouldn’t want to celebrate Bastille Day anywhere else.

A cosmopolitan Italian diner with enough marble to sink a ship. It’s a spin-off of Matteo’s in Double Bay, and the pizza is just as good. This place has a few of its own moves though – notably, an executive chef who was trained by the inventor of Roman-style pizza.

This laneway eatery by Oscillate Wildly’s Karl Firla and Lumi Dining’s Federico Zanellato is plating up duck ragu with curly malfaldine, plus a note-perfect tiramisu.

This lively Italian diner is from Swillhouse, the same group behind Restaurant Hubert. It shows – the place has an ineffable cool and gently subversive food that often seems traditional at first glance, but contains a level of sophistication that’s undeniable.

Apart from sides, there's only one thing on this menu: T-bone steaks, sold by weight.

Descend the stairs into a labyrinthine den of lush velvet booths, flowing booze and a menu that champions Riverine rib eye.

From the group behind Balmain’s Efendy comes this veg-forward diner inspired by Turkey’s Aegean coastline. Meze is at the heart of the menu, and you can pair dishes such as beetroot falafel with Turkish wines you won’t find elsewhere.

The restaurant in Angel Place has whole rotisserie beasts, daily cheeses, an enviable wine list and charcuterie.

Southern Indian spices and village cuisine are at the centre of Sam Prince’s restaurant.

Above Par is a sleek 60-seater bistro in the heart of the CBD, serving homestyle Levantine dishes from lunch and well into the evening.

A Parisian-style bistro in the heart of the city.

A modern Japanese restaurant where ’90s grunge and rock reigns supreme.

Behind a nondescript door in town, the second iteration of Toko echoes the experience beloved at the original Surry Hills site for 15 years. Expect good-times playlists, signature dishes including Moreton Bay bug tempura, and a sushi bar.

The team behind Ragazzi have taken cues from their favourite Roman trattorias and New York's Gramercy Tavern to create their dream Italian joint – with a walk-in bar area and a beautiful art-filled dining room spanning 120 seats. Slide into a velvet-and-leather booth for a plate for lovingly made pastas, and a choice of 600 wines from Italy and beyond.

This immersive Korean diner has pinched a chef from a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Seoul. He’s uniting Korean and European influences inside a futuristic space unlike anything else in the CBD.

This spot blends fifties-style Shanghai glamour with CBD laneway dining. It's the more relaxed addition to the China Doll and China Beach family of restaurants.

There’s no velvet or faff at this humming diner from the team behind Bistecca and the Gidley. Order a Riverine sirloin steak – butchered and aged in-house – and it’ll be on your table in 15 minutes. The brutalist, art-filled space also packs in a bar with the energy of east London, and serves what might be the coldest Martini in Sydney.

This is the show-stopping star of Matt Moran’s culinary empire. The artfully-plated dishes warrant the lofty price-tags, but those generous harbour views do a lot to offset the sting. This is one of Sydney’s great try-before-you-die restaurants – a pillar of modern Australian dining.

Set within the historic Campbell's Stores precinct, this luxe Japanese diner lets you choose your own experience. There's an omakase counter where your meal is left entirely up to the chefs, and a bigger dining area with a set menu. There's fresh-caught seafood and sake on the cards no matter where you sit.

Burgers, craft beer, minimal intervention wine, thumping rock music and a fern-filled outdoor dining space with 30 seats. And the whole menu can be ordered vegan.

A ritzy institution on the Customs House rooftop. The menu bounces between Indian and Italian flavours to create an altogether modern Australian vibe that spans surf, turf and vegan dishes. An appropriate focus on seafood works a treat, given the jaw-dropping views of Sydney Harbour. Book ahead for the window seats.

An ultra-luxe fine diner specialising in two of Japan’s great culinary traditions. The multi-course menus highlight premium produce, from lobster to Wagyu and abalone. But you can’t put a price on those stellar harbour views.

A pioneering Greek-Australian chef is celebrating the cuisines of the south Aegean at this handsome harbourside diner. Dig into spanakopita-inspired dumplings and chargrilled octopus in the heritage-listed sandstone dining room. Or snag a seat outside for cocktails with one of the country’s most iconic views.

The team behind Alberto’s Lounge brings a wine bar and restaurant to the Rocks of a calibre the area hasn’t seen before. Hit this audacious, multi-level venue for a Mediterranean-inspired menu, a cracking wine list, massive mosaics shipped from Italy and views of the Harbour Bridge and MCA.

The overhaul of this once notorious late-night dive was a long time coming. And the chic public bar, elegant European bistro and sunny rooftop were all worth the wait. The best part? You’ll actually want to be there during daylight hours, too.

This is the long-awaited Sydney outpost for the beloved Japanese dining empire, and it's brought its signature miso cod along for the ride. Dine on salmon-sashimi tacos and evaporate-in-your-mouth nigiri, knock back "sushi cups" and enjoy some aged sake.

For the theatre of a Michelin-starred meal without the stiffness, look no further than Alessandro Pavoni’s elegant Italian diner. Come for Genovese pesto pounded tableside, a roving gelato cart and sparkling harbour views.

Celebrated Irish chef Clare Smyth brings to Sydney the same farm-to-plate concept that earned her London restaurant three Michelin stars. Expect signature and locally inspired dishes, backed up a 3000-bottle wine list and spectacular harbour views from atop Crown Tower.

This dazzling fine diner – from the duo behind legendary CBD restaurant The Bridge Room – was worth the wait. Each kitchen of the four kitchens here harness a different element: steam, fire, smoke and ice.

A less-spicy outpost for a Harris Park Indian favourite.

Contemporary Chinese meets native produce.

A bright Barangaroo taqueria doing mezcal and tequila cocktails, plus stellar tacos and share plates marrying Mexican flavours and cooking techniques with Australian produce.

Ethically sourced seafood on the waterfront.

Nashville-style spicy fried chicken, natural wines and craft beers.

One of Sydney’s yum cha kings. This slamming Cantonese favourite can be a tad expensive if you're dining with a smaller group – but the premium is warranted. The quality of food, speed of service and deep history is undeniable.

One of the few places in the centre of town where you can try Nanjing specialties. If you’re into duck, this is the spot for you.

Affordable Malaysian food with a range of flavoured roti. If you don't get in before the lunchtime rush you can expect to queue for a while.

Find this cavernous Thai grocer and cafe in the heart of Sydney’s Thai Town. Despite serving burgers, bowls and pasta, Boon doesn’t mix elements of Thai and western cuisine – it reimagines them like they always belonged together.

The home of the richest, most unctuous tonkotsu ramen in town. Owner Mori Higashida rips through 300 kilograms of fresh pork bones every day to make his soup, which has been hailed by Dan Hong as the “most hectic” in Australia.

For fast-paced, real-deal Thai.

In the old Golden Century site, this 400-seat Cantonese diner is ushering in a new era for Chinatown. The seafood tanks are full, the yum cha trolleys are back in action and late-night dining runs until 3am.