Monopole has long been French-leaning. But it was in 2020, when Monopole moved from Potts Point to the city, that conversations about going all the way first came up.
“It was on the table back then,” Brent Savage tells Broadsheet. “But we just sort of thought it was too big a departure from what we were known for in Potts Point at the time.” Savage co-owns the Bentley Group with sommelier Nick Hildebrandt, with Cirrus, Yellow, Bentley and newcomer King Clarence joining Monopole in the stable.
Four years later, the duo has taken the plunge. “We felt like it was the right thing to do at the right time,” says Savage. “It’s nice to see Monopole evolve. It’s always been a forward-thinking restaurant in its own right – the word ‘monopole’ is derived from a French wine term meaning single vineyard or single-minded.”
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SUBSCRIBE NOWThe new menu draws on French classics, but as you might expect, doesn’t exactly take the well-trodden road. “It’s always exciting, being a cook – you’re always thinking of the next thing,” Savage says. “But this also turns my head back to when I first started cooking. All those dishes I learnt along the way I can now revisit, and add our own twist.”
There’s a prime example – and one of Savage’s favourites – among the entrees: the mille-feuille d’anguille fumée. Mille-feuille (which translates to “1000 leaves”) – is an extremely fine pastry, most often layered with vanilla custard. Monopole’s version is layered with smoked eel and tiny cubes of green apple, then topped with a creamy celeriac remoulade. Another entree delivers dreamy quenelles of Murray cod and king prawns floating on a rich bisque.
The most fun on the larger side is in the form of the burger de canard. A fat, juicy duck patty is topped with melty Comté, sprinkled with cornichons and given a kick with a house-made hot sauce. “We definitely felt like a duck burger was something people wanted,” says Savage. “It doesn’t matter if you’re in a restaurant or not.”
A savoury tarte tatin is topped with thick, sticky slices of caramelised eschalot, boosted with Roquefort and prettied up with watercress. While a refined, surprisingly light – and very winter-friendly – take on a traditional pot-au-feu, brings beef brisket and veggies bolstered by bone marrow in a beef consommé.
On a cold night, the only way to finish up is with the baba au Calvados – slabs of house-baked sponge soaked in rum, with a side of zesty candied cumquat and a whiff of Chantilly. Alternatively, the chartreuse granita with vanilla ice-cream and green apple is a refreshing finale.
With Hildebrandt on the team, you know the wine list will be special. Like the menu, it has long favoured French drops, but it’s been expanded to bring in even more bottles – including an impressive collection of burgundies.
To mark its new era, Monopole’s dining room received an extensive makeover. “We gave it a total facelift,” says Savage. “The staples, like the cellar, have stayed the same, but we’ve made it feel a bit more luxe. We’ve softened the room with curtains and put up a whole heap of art. It has a much warmer feel.”
Monopole
16/20 Curtin Place, Sydney
Hours:
Tue to Fri lunch from midday, 5pm–late
Sat 5pm–late
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