Where Chefs Eat: “Dough Is Hydrated to Perfection” at This Pizza Pop-Up According to Diana Desensi

Hot-Listed Abbotsford Convent restaurant Julie is handing its kitchen over to a different chef every month between May and July. Emmanuelle Leftick kicked things off, and starting Thursday June 5, it’s Diana Desensi’s turn.

Desensi was part of the opening team at the Karen Martini-led Saint George and has recently been working at new South Melbourne joint Pizzateca Lupa. We caught up with Desensi to find out where (and what) she’s been eating in Melbourne lately.

What’s your favourite bakery?
Wild Life in Brunswick East. The pastries, particularly the plain croissants, strike that perfect balance for me. It’s everything I look for in a croissant. The bakery feels like a true neighbourhood hub. There’s something about the atmosphere that makes it feel rooted in the community, and that’s a big part of what keeps me coming back.

Where is your go-to breakfast spot?
Florian, hands down. I find myself there at least once a week, almost always ordering the breakfast plate or omelette. It’s a simple dish, but it’s done with such consistency and finesse. There’s a quiet confidence in the way they operate, and it shows in both the service and the food.

Where do you take visitors when they’re in town?
Old Palm Liquor is a total gem. The way the team uses fire across the menu is incredible, and the food is always approachable but interesting. It’s one of those places that works whether you’re entertaining friends or just slipping in for a mid-week dinner at the bar. The vibe always has this cool, laid-back charm and is, most importantly, always welcoming.

What’s the best place for a drink and snacks?
Public Wine Shop. It’s perfect for oysters, mussels and anything served with good butter. It’s the kind of place where a quick drink can easily turn into a long, leisurely hang.

Where do you go for date night?
I recently had a date night at Etta, which was just fantastic. The menu there keeps going from strength to strength. Lorcán [Kan]’s food is strong and considered, with so much depth. I could eat 12 of the prawn skewers with pineapple hot sauce. And the hospitality is always spot on. It’s one of those places where you feel genuinely looked after, which makes all the difference.

What’s your favourite ice-cream spot?
Billy van Creamy. The team uses organic ingredients and focuses on sustainable practices, which I really appreciate. I always go for whatever new flavour they’ve got, and top it with rich chocolate fudge – it never disappoints.

Where do you go for a special occasion?
I really like heading to Gimlet for a night out that feels both luxurious and relaxed. My ritual usually starts with a Martini, oysters and snacks. The tableside tartare reminds me of being in Europe, and it’s such a fun and indulgent experience.

What do you think is the most underrated restaurant in Melbourne?
I’d have to say Yakamoz on Lygon Street. It’s a Turkish restaurant that’s quietly doing something special. The food is incredibly wholesome and deeply satisfying. You can taste the care and tradition behind every dish and it delivers comfort and quality in a really genuine way. The flavours are honest, and there’s a real sense of hospitality that makes the whole experience feel special.

What’s your go-to for pizza?
I’ll tell anyone who’ll listen about Da Paolo at Bahama Gold. Kit [Iacuzi]’s pizza is just stunning. The dough is hydrated to perfection, and his toppings are always seasonal, balanced and thoughtful.

What’s the best place to eat as a solo diner?
I’m a big fan of dining solo. Sitting at the bar at North Fitzroy Arms for a counter meal is hard to beat. And if I’m in the mood to splurge, Victor Churchill is such a beautiful experience, even on your own.

What’s your bucket list restaurant?
Eleven Madison Park and King in New York.