The vision at Sogumm blends fine-dining precision with ancient temple food philosophy learnt from revered Buddhist nun and fermentation expert Jeong Kwan. The nondescript spot – run by a husband-and-wife duo, who between them have experience under chefs including Alain Ducasse and Matt Moran – brings Korean cuisine into an intimate and personal space on Church Street.

Lunch is designed with structure in mind. Dishes are guided by four traditional Korean seasonings: soy, gochujang, salt and doenjang. Each anchors a single offering. There’s a vegan bibimbap dressed in soy, a seafood noodle salad with gochujang, and a warming soup finished simply with salt. The menu is small but the dish preparations are intricate and complicated.

The room is light and unfussy: warm timber, soft lighting, and a large, open counter-style kitchen that feels more like a neighbourhood wine bar than a Korean diner.