Wild Life Bakery

Huw Murdoch is a devotee of Tartine, the famous San Francisco bakery. After six years with Market Lane, he travelled to America a few times and met with renowned bakers including Richard Hart (Noma, Tartine) and Josey Baker (Josey Baker Bread, The Mill), inspiring him to open his own shop.

But the cavernous space he found – an old mechanic warehouse on Albert Street – warranted a cafe addition. The interior has striking circular windows that allow customers to observe the bread-making.

Almost everything here is vegetarian, and toasties are the heroes. The line-up includes fillings of caramelised onion and comté; broadbean, pea and manchego; and house-made kimchi and cheddar grilled between day-old bread.

Murdoch’s rustic loaves are fermented for 24 hours, and he and head baker Brad Tobin (ex-Wood Frog Bakery) experiment with different Australian-grown heirloom wheat varietals. Along with a staple white, seeded and fruit loaves, there’s an oat porridge sourdough inspired by Tartine’s original. Galettes are topped with seasonal fruit and croissants are made with cultured butter from Fitzroy’s St David’s Dairy.

Alongside Market Lane coffee, Mörk hot chocolate and Assembly tea, there’s a small selection of minimal-intervention wine and a saison beer from La Sirene.

Updated: February 15th, 2021

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