Byrdi comes from Luke Whearty and Aki Nishikura, the couple behind celebrated Singapore bar Operation Dagger.

Byrdi offers a menu of small plates, most are cooked over fire and come charred and smokey as a result. Also on offer is an ever-changing amuse-bouche (“mouth amuser” in French) designed to keep you occupied while you wait to order or for your first drink. Or cheese – maybe Riverine Blue with Yarra Valley honeycomb – selected by fromage-maven Anthony Femia of Maker & Monger.

Cocktails are built with care and precision over time, with some components conceived months in advance. Elements of your drink arrive fermented, smoked, reconstituted, centrifuged or a combination of the above. In the past, last spring’s fermented berries have been combined with a sort-of “wine” made from new-season yellow wattle.