When it comes to must-do Sydney food experiences, Rockpool Bar & Grill is right up there. From its opulent, green-marbled, art deco interior to the choreographed service from floor staff, this striking establishment has never been anything less than special. But it’s not the dramatic decor, nor the silver service that entice the well-heeled masses.

It is, of course, the food – and plenty of it. At its heart, Rockpool Bar and Grill is a steakhouse, with an incredible selection of cuts (dry-aged in-house) from the likes of Blackmore Wagyu and Cape Grim Beef. But you’d be ill advised to ignore the fresh seafood from the cold bar, or the poultry from the wood-fired rotisserie. Then there are the numerous sides – perhaps a tumble of mixed mushrooms or Brussels sprouts with speck and chestnuts. It’s a diverse, exciting and considered menu, sprinkled with touches of nostalgia.

The other half of the equation at Rockpool is the bar, which gets you plenty of the flavour and excitement from the restaurant next door, but without the need for a booking. Highlights from the full Rockpool menu can be ordered alongside bar-only dishes such a standout Wagyu burger with gruyere cheese and zuni pickles.

Whether you take to the bar or dining room, a perusal of Rockpool’s wine list is good reading indeed. It’s a tome of world-renowned labels, with some of the more coveted reserves going for princely five-figure sums. That said, there are plenty of excellent options sitting around the $100 mark.

A cluster of awards and rave reviews lie in Rockpool's wake, so expectations are understandably high. But with its impressive interior and expertly executed yet uncomplicated food, this place lives up to the hype.