Morena is a sophisticated Latin American diner in Martin Place’s 150-year-old GPO building, where executive chef (and a major force in Victoria’s dining scene) Alejandro Saravia celebrates the vibrant food culture of Latin America. Morena is also the sister restaurant to Melbourne’s Farmer’s Daughters and Victoria by Farmer’s Daughters , both led by Saravia.

Dishes inspired by Saravia’s native Peru feature heavily. Think robata-grill-charred ox tongue anticuchos (skewered meat dishes) and lomo saltado, a Chifa (Peruvian-Chinese) dish of eye-fillet beef stir-fried with onions and tomatoes. But the menu doesn’t stop at Peru – a swordfish cutlet with a yerba mate sauce is a nod to Argentina; the fried eggplant arepas to Venezuela.

Morena also lays claim to the biggest collection of Latin American wines in Australia. There are over 200 bottles spanning classic and minimal-intervention styles.

The fit-out pays respect to the history of the building and its former Italian tenant, Intermezzo. Think herringbone timber floors and checkerboard tiles surrounding a marble bar. Paintings from Saravia’s grandmother’s collection in Peru adorn the walls, and there are postcards (and stamps) on hand if you’re inspired to send a note. Staff will post for you in the bright-red box just outside Morena’s dining room.