Some might question the decision to name a restaurant after one of history’s most controversial figures. Portraits of Mao hang on the walls, with accompanying calligraphy retelling stories of the Chinese revolution (handpainted by the owner’s mum). But this restaurant’s owners insist they aren’t radical Maoists, just proud Hunan ex-pats, and everything they do here is designed to show the history and culture of their home. Mao is Hunan province’s most famous former resident.

Hunan cuisine is probably the spiciest of all China’s culinary traditions (Sichuan has nothing on it). It’s also known for being heavy on the garlic, packed with smoke, and accented by pickles and ferments. If this is all sounds good to you, go straight for the restaurant’s big hitters – the house-smoked pork (garlic shoots, bamboo and bean curd are all fun additions) and the chilli chicken, two punchy stir-fries swimming in chilli.

There’s also an order-ahead menu of Hunan specialities centred around luxury ingredients – including a whole abalone fired with pepper and chilli. If you’re ordering these for Lunar New Year, we recommend you book extra early.

Chairman Mao is relocating to Potts Point and is due to open February 2022

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Updated: January 17th, 2022

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