Sonny’s by name, sunny by nature.

Even on overcast days, Mount Hawthorn’s newest wine bar exudes sunshine and warmth. Granted, the latter could be the wood-burning kitchen at the back of the room – more on that later – but still, there’s something undoubtedly inviting about the look and feel of Sonny’s. The wall feature near the front door is straight out of a mid-century look-book, ditto the handsome blue bar. A sunken dining area beautified by a diptych of framed prints gives the room a cool ’70s edge. But perhaps Sonny’s brightest feature is the crowd that packs the room and, when the weather cooperates, populate the outdoor tables that offer sightlines to Scarborough Beach Road, Axford Park and the TAB next door.

“We’ve been lucky to have lots of neighbourhood support since we opened,” says Jessica Blyth, owner of Sonny’s. “It’s almost 70 or 80 per cent locals, who then bring in their friends, who then tell other friends about us. Right now, they’re our marketing and PR department.”

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I suspect those locals would be telling their mates about how good-natured staff and a room kitted out like a cool relative’s living room will make guests feel right at home. The diverse drinks list would probably be another talking point, from the cocktails designed by bar manager Chris Hodges – maybe something like the Habanero Paloma which sees the Mexican classic hacked with grapefruit soda and some habanero spice in the tequila – to Daisy Case’s edit of leftfield wines. Representing the Swan Valley is Ohkela Wines with its textured Sophia’s rose. From South Australia’s McLaren Vale region comes a complex arneis made by Gill Gordon-Smith of La Madrina – “the Godmother” in Italian. Chalkboards around the room detail the day’s by-the-glass selections while a handful of beers rounds off the drinks package.

In the kitchen is Aaron Read, a Victorian chef whose stint at Billie H (now Corvo) denoted him as a cooking talent to watch. As mentioned, our man is all about cooking over wood and almost every dish on his fluid menu features smoke or char. Native and Japanese flavours are also recurring motifs, from the native thyme oil used to brighten the great grilled flatbreads, to the Davidson’s plum togarashi (dried chilli mix) that adds lift to a fat skewer of duck hearts grilled yakitori-style. The smoked ice cream with quandong preserve, meanwhile, sounds like a very excellent time.

At present, the bar can accommodate 65 guests – 50 in various nooks and crannies in the sleek main room and another 15 outside – although management is planning to spend the Christmas shutdown renovating and making upgrades to bump up capacity. After all, Sonny conditions await.

Sonny’s Bar
126A Hobart Street, Mount Hawthorn

Hours:
Wed & Thu 4pm-11pm
Fri – Sun 12pm-11pm

sonnysbar.com.au