DJ-turned restaurateur Grant Smillie was responsible for some of Melbourne’s best parties – and classic Yarra River bar Ponyfish Island – before moving to Los Angeles and opening a string of successful venues. So Marmont, a buzzy, California-inspired restaurant at Crown, feels like a full circle moment. A best-of-both-worlds situation.

The experience at Marmont is reminiscent of Hollywood Boulevard. Arrive via red carpet, attend the ‘ceremony’ then kick on to the afterparty (the 20-metre cartoony mural inside, depicting an Oscars ceremony in the ‘80s, amplifies this). While the atmosphere draws from breezy Californian glamour, the seafood-forward menu takes cues from Latin America and head chef Mark Tagnipez’s (ex- Fonda and Supernormal) Filipino American heritage. You might find scallop tostadas; a pork pluma number; and buttermilk fried chicken with pickled chilli. In true American style, there’s also a standout burger with zucchini pickle and seasoned fries.

Music is in the DNA of Marmont – a late dinner reservation might finish on the dancefloor, and there’s a corner that can be turned into a private room, with intimate seating next to a turntable and vinyl shelf.