Where Chefs Eat: The “Juiciest, Flakiest” Sausage Roll Around According to Gareth Whitton

Gareth Whitton has had a year. The Dessert Masters winner unexpectedly opened a new flagship for Tarts Anon, the cult bakery he opened with his wife Catherine Way, after the lockdown-born business was kicked out of its original Cremorne home.

We caught up with the former Dinner by Heston pastry chef to find out where (and what) he’s been eating in Melbourne lately.

What’s your favourite bakery?
Akimbo Bread in Northcote. Get the fougasse, shokupan and the juiciest, flakiest sausage roll. In fact, just get everything, as I do, once a week.

What’s your go-to breakfast spot?
We’ve been going to Ophelia in Westgarth recently. They’ve got a solid all-day menu, great coffee and a decent bread and pastry cabinet. Go for the breakfast bowl.

Where do you take visitors when they’re in town?
I’ll always take my friends to The Park Hotel in Abbotsford – it’s easily my favourite pub in Melbourne. The parma never disappoints and there’s a strong selection of local crafts and domestic beers. It has the best atmosphere in summer or winter.

What’s the best place for a drink and snacks?
Jamsheed Urban Winery. The food and wine has always been on point, but the new kitchen team is doing great things food-wise. [The] pippies and chippies [dish] is so comforting, great to just pop in and pick at stuff over a bottle of Kitty Flip.

Best sandwich in Melbourne?
Hugo’s Deli makes them, but for me, it’s a toss-up between a You’ve Got Muffin To Lose or the fried chicken.

What’s your favourite ice-cream or gelato spot?
It’s not the most indie answer, but I absolutely love Messina. There are clever and passionate people making this stuff, and I reckon it’s the most consistent ice-cream going. I rarely stray from old faithfuls like pistachio, and I froth rum-raisin. And choc chip mint. If anyone says it tastes like toothpaste – grow up.

Where do you go for special occasions?
I’m enjoying the renaissance of the brasserie, and Gimlet is world-class. You can go large or keep it tame, and either end of the spectrum always hits the spot.

What Melbourne restaurant do you think is the most underrated?
Oriental Impression on Victoria Street, Richmond. Catherine went past it once while running and was drawn in by the enticing smell of the spices. We’ve had some of the most mind-blowing food there. It’s usually packed and hard to get a table, so maybe not that underrated, but you don’t hear enough about it!

Where can you find your favourite dessert in Melbourne?
I would have to say it’s the rum baba at Carlton Wine Room. There are too many great desserts for me to count, but if there’s one that I come back to time and time again – it’s this.

What’s the best place to eat as a solo diner?
Old Palm Liquor delivers time and time again. Good tunes and wines and nice decor – plenty to enjoy on your own. Flatbreads and plantain chips with ricotta are a new-found love.

What’s a place people would be surprised to know you like?
This seems like a loaded gun, but usually the first thing I crave is a simple counter meal at the pub. The Stolberg in Preston is our local, and it has all the simple and homely comforts of a solid local pub. I also frequent Preston Chicken Shack, which adds chicken salt with a heavy hand!

Is there a dish in Melbourne you wish you came up with?
Yeah, there’re a million of them. But if I had to pick just the one, it would be the anchovy toast and smoked tomato sorbet at Movida. It’s super clever and, as the evolution of gastronomy steamrolls into the future, this classic still feels relevant.