When it comes to service, few people are as genuine as Agi Nolan. She’s always first in and last out at No. 84. Sure, she’s the owner. But she also wants to be there when you show up a bit early or need to score a coffee right before close. It’s a dedicated attitude that filters down to her staff.

Her past studies in architecture lent a hand in reinventing the space and creating an atmosphere where customers feel relaxed and unhurried. Timber benches complement a neutral colour palette of pale blues and whites. Decorative hanging plants drop from the ceiling in uneven lengths, while timber crates act as both a feature wall and storage area.

Jonathan Nolan, head chef and Agi’s husband, creates dishes that play on her Malaysian heritage. Staples include breakfast bruschetta with avocado, herbed feta spread and haloumi; duck and mushroom omelette; and a vegie stack with homemade pumpkin, zucchini and almond bread. For a sweet hit, try the kaya toast with lashings of Malaysian coconut jam.

Changes to the menu are possible and gluten-free options are abundant. Sweet treats in the display cabinet are by Agi, with a generous selection again of gluten-free. Local crew Zest provides a single-origin roast that’s expertly poured and goes down easy.