First Look: Dodam Excels at House-Made Korean Dumplings, Noodles and Rice Wine

At first glance, East Brunswick Village looks like another development with an apartment complex and a retail section including a big supermarket and a few small shops. But with To Be Frank and Rocket Society in residence, the food offering is better than it has any right to be. Joining the fold tomorrow night is casual Korean restaurant Dodam.

The name, which loosely translates from Korean as “wholesome” or “pure”, is a fitting reflection of the restaurant’s thoughtful menu and connection to tradition. It’s the work of co-owners, and East Brunswick Village residents, husband-and-wife duo Jin Jung (who worked in the kitchen at Bistrot D’Orsay) and Jaekyung “Jacky” Kim. Jung is head chef, while former language teacher Jacky is front-of-house lead. They’re joined by sous chef Mars Kim (no relation to Jacky), who most recently worked as a chef at a temple restaurant in Korea.

“For us, this isn’t just about serving good Korean food in a beautiful restaurant, it’s about building community,” Jacky says. “We wanted to create a space that honours Korean tradition but also feels modern and welcoming to everyone. That’s what Dodam is all about.”

The team is most excited about the house-made noodles, mandu (dumplings) and makgeolli (traditional Korean rice liquor). At lunchtime, hand-pulled noodles come in a rich, warming beef noodle soup. And the mandu – Jin’s specialty – come filled with pork or a combination of cabbage, carrots, chives, mushroom and tofu. Jacky says they’re best enjoyed with the makgeolli. It’s milky, slightly sweet and lightly fizzy and fermented in-house over eight to 10 days.

Other Dodam specialties are the grilled meat platters (or “Meat Feasts” as the team calls them). The spreads are served sizzling hot with seasonal banchan and ssamjang (spicy dipping sauce) and a choice of meat such as spicy braised pork jowl, doenjang-marinated pork jowl and soy-marinated thick-cut beef ribs. Other highlights: Korean fried chicken glazes or toppings (including sweet and spicy and powdered cheese) and a bojagi bibimbap. Inspired by Korean gift-wrapping cloth, the rice dish comes covered in an omelette-like sheet of egg.

The drinks list is tight, with the house-fermented makgeolli joined by Korean lager and small-batch soju – including Neungiju, an oyster mushroom soju known for its earthy, savoury depth.

The space, designed by Remmus Architecture, balances functionality and warmth. There’s a custom-built open kitchen and bar, a compact dining room filled with handcrafted ceramics, and walls painted by Jung and Kim, finished with Korean fabrics that nod to heritage and craft.

Dodam
Retail 2/7 Bluestone Way, Brunswick East
0411 121 162

Hours:
Fri to Wed 11am–3pm; 5pm–10pm
Thu 5pm–10pm

@dodammelbourne