When Apple Tonkanya and her family arrived Sydney, they were welcomed into a big, supportive Thai community. Adelaide didn’t give them the same feeling, so they decided to open a restaurant and build their own community.

Hide ‘n Seek Thai took over the old Austin & Austin site in 2016. It’s not the easiest restaurant to find, but it’s worth the hunt. The caramelised crispy chicken wings are some of the best in town.

Under strings of coloured flags, crowds hunch over fresh, leafy, north-eastern dishes served on bright crockery. The food can be as communal as you’d like it. There are som-tum platters piled high with green papaya salad, steamed pork sausage, pork crackling, rice noodles, soft boiled eggs, peanuts and mixed vegetables. The various elements are rolled in lettuce or cabbage leaves.

In the kitchen, Tonkanya’s husband Kavee Kaeopoklang (ex-Taste Baguette, Golden Boy, Gin Long Canteen) and three other Thai chefs banter and tease each other while they produce dishes such as spicy seafood hotpot and crying tiger: 200 grams of marinated beef with herbs and roasted rice.

Breakfast is less traditional. You’ll find granola topped with basil seeds, fruit and Thai basil oil; pork-belly omelette; and pancakes with caramelised seasonal fruit and a shot of lemongrass-palm sugar syrup. Coffee, tea, beer, wine and tom-yum cocktails round off the menu.