Karena Armstrong’s reputation precedes her. Her restaurant, The Salopian Inn, is one of the state’s most beloved regional spots. She’s also spent the last several years as Tasting Australia’s festival director.
We caught up with Armstrong to chat degustation diners that aren’t too stuffy, her favourite ever panini, and cooking with carp.
Where are you headed for a special occasion?
Maxwell’s Winery in McLaren Vale. The chef [at the time was] Fabian Lehmann. I went for my 50th birthday, and it really was such a special lunch. I went with my mum, and it was the first time she’d ever had a multi-course degustation. The way they’ve set the dining room up is not ostentatious. I felt very comfortable. I often find tasting menus a bit intimidating in that there’s a lot to eat and you’re meant to behave a certain way, and I just don’t find that relaxing, whereas there, I felt super relaxed. The service was incredible, and the food is amazing, and it’s not overwhelming. It’s a really nice experience. That’s what a special occasion is to me, it’s not just food or nourishment; it’s actually an experience and I think they really nail the experience.
What’s your go-to if you want a quick takeaway dinner?
When I’m not with the family, I go to the Lucia’s in the Central Market. I think it’s the Number Six that I get, but it’s mozzarella and tomato. During summer, these tomatoes are just like oozing summeriness, and it’s served with pesto. It sounds so simple, but it’s my favourite panino ever.
How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
I love Ondeen, Kane Pollard’s restaurant in the Hills. It’s multi-course, but again, not over the top, and you can definitely share the food there. The other one is Herringbone on Halifax Street in Adelaide. It’s really beautiful, shared food. And, of course, Parwana. I just love going there. I feel nourished from head to toe when I go. There is something about that place. It’s really special. And I’m sure it’s on everyone’s hit list.
Is there a hidden gem that you think is underrated but great?
Trinh at The Little Rickshaw. I know she’s hit some of the big lists across Australia, but people still don’t know about it. It’s in Aldinga. Her food is superb. She’s the most understated human you’ll ever meet. She doesn’t see herself as a chef, she sees herself as someone who just cooks. Humble is the right word, but her food is insane, like it is so good. It’s so full of flavour. It’s like a little shed, literally, it’s a lean-to shed, which doesn’t sound glamorous, but they’ve made it amazing. It’s incredible, and she and her partner run it. It’s got that feeling of a small, independently owned restaurant; I think those restaurants are a dying breed and really special.
Tell us about a local producer you can’t stop thinking about.
This is like choosing one of my children. The one I’ve had the longest working relationship with is Nomad Farms. Their goal was always land regeneration, and then protein production is how they facilitate that financially. Now I’ve got to see what they’ve actually done and the re-vegetation and the soil profile, and, of course, the lamb, the beef, the chicken. They do their own wool, as well. It’s amazing. It’s so cool.
What’s your favourite dish to cook at The Salopian Inn and why?
We always have a dumpling. At the moment, it’s prawn from Spencer Gulf and carp. [Carp is] an invasive species. They really trash the Murray River. And so we found a producer that catches it and minces it for us. These carp and prawn dumplings, for me, symbolise our connection with producers, and how we see our place in being good stewards of the environment in South Australia. [We’re] not just using a super glam prawn but getting people to eat carp and get them to enjoy it. So, you know, the dish is delicious, but it’s more than the dish. That’s thought that goes into things at Salopian; it’s always more than just food on a plate.
What, if anything, do you cook at home for a late-night meal?
I’m just such a sucker for a toasted sandwich. I’ve got three teenage boys, so there’s always a toasted sandwich press around. And one of my favourites that I make, I made years ago with my beautiful friend O Tama Carey from Lankan Filling Station. We got very drunk in Sydney, and we made mozzarella and curry leaf toasted sandwiches. I am forever hooked on them. They’re really good. You don’t have to be drunk!
Any Tasting Australia events with tickets still available that people should jump on?
Murray River Tasting Australia Airlines. It’s an incredible trip, you fly up to the Riverland for the day. It’s an epic adventure. You’ve got Darren Robertson and Andy [Allen] from Masterchef and Three Blue Ducks. They’re cooking on a houseboat for you. It’s only 30 guests so it’s intimate. But we’ve also got moments in quince orchards, and Anthony, the amazing chef from Hotel Remark up there, is cooking as well.
