Two graphic designers and a coffee roaster walk into a (sandwich) bar – and decide to stray from the ubiquitous, minimalist industrial-meets-Scandi cafe aesthetic. So goes the story of Pinco, a new sandwich deli that opened on Glen Osmond Road on Monday.
“We are really hoping to bring a new approach to a cafe interior,” says co-owner Elijah Makris, who also runs design agency Studio Mazi. “We’ve seen a lot of cafes that are minimalistic in style, so we’re bringing all of our favourite design pieces together to create a space where our customers will feel almost like they’re at an art gallery.”
He and Studio Mazi co-founder Saba Maghsoudi have joined forces with Willow Bend Coffee owner and roaster Ben Pankhurst to merge food, art and design into one slick space inspired by – but not derivative of – the east coast’s exploding sandwich shop scene.
“There’s a few spots in Melbourne that are popping off at the moment that are sort of the reference, but then [we also want to] make it more simple, like an everyday eat,” Makris told Broadsheet in June.
Instead of heavy, maximalist sandwiches, chef Jarrah Gardener (previously at The Scenic Hotel) has created a menu of eight classic sandwiches and focaccias that are big on freshness. “It’s pretty simple, but super high-level ingredients and the execution really well done,” says Makris.
“The sandwiches are mostly just trying to focus on good ingredients,” Gardener adds. “There’s a lot of simple flavour pairings, like the prosciutto and the pickled radicchio – pork and radicchio is a classic. It’s classic Italian in a modern style. On the vegetable [focaccia] we’ve got artichoke cream. I was just over in Italy and that’s really big over there.”
Gardener – who also has his own food truck, La Flame – sampled sandwiches from the top to the toe of the boot, from Venice down to Sicily. “The main thing I got from that … is they keep it so simple,” he says. “A bit of meat, but very generous portions of meat, and seriously good quality cheese and maybe a condiment. Maybe some basil. But all the best quality possible.”
At Pinco, that means mortadella, prosciutto, salami, ham and pastrami – stuffed into fluffy focaccia, toasted sandwiches and fresh baguettes – alongside radicchio agrodolce, marinated vegetables, fior di latte and more.
You’ll also find a simple ham, mozzarella and Nap sauce combo; a tuna melt with mayo, cheese, pickled onion and fresh cos lettuce; layers of mortadella, salami and provolone with mayo, giardiniera and basil; and an early crowd favourite, the pastrami with piccalilli, pickled onion, dill pickles, Swiss cheese and “burger sauce” – a secret recipe, says Gardener.
“I’ve got to keep my cards close to my chest,” he laughs. “[That sandwich] could be a cheeseburger, it could be a Reuben. It’s kind of referencing the beef and pickles at Hector’s Deli [in Melbourne], but we’re making it our own. We’ve got the piccalilli in there, which is basically a mustardy pickled relish … It all goes together really nicely.”
Fillings come from Barossa Fine Foods and Schinella’s, which is also supplying the focaccia (“We’ve been working with them to get the consistency we want – nice and fluffy,” says Gardener), and the sourdough is from Spectrum Bakery. “We’d been looking for sourdough for so long and that was a final piece in the puzzle,” says Gardener. “It’s a husband-and-wife set-up. They really care.”
There are also pastries by Prove Patisserie, zeppole (fried dough balls) from Schinella’s, and coffee by Willow Bend.
While the menu is all about simplicity, the “retro future” interior is decidedly not. “The interior combines elements of the past and visions of the future,” says Makris. “You will walk in to see Italian stone, Ettore Sottsass plywood, stainless steel, a ceiling that replicates a spaceship, art by James Brown and retro Scarpa chairs. It’s an intentional yet wacky setting.
“The whole vibe and aesthetic is super important to us. We want to tick all the boxes: on pastries, coffee, sandwiches, interior, music.”
Pinco Deli
1/73–79 Glen Osmond Road, Eastwood
Hours:
Mon to Sat 7am–4pm
Sun 7am–3pm
