When it opened in 2018, Wines of While was Perth’s first dedicated natural-wine bar and store. The cosy, 50-seater has since become one of the country’s key wine destinations, now under the helm of Tom Van Beem and Emma Pegrum.

The wine list focuses on drops made without systemic chemicals, and the fridges and shelves are stocked with spirits, beers and non-alc drinks made in a similar spirit. A chalkboard details the day’s by-the-glass offerings; taking in everything from fresh and gluggable Italian-Australian whites to blush, skin-contact wines made from mtsvane, a grape native to the ancient winemaking country of Georgia. Any of the wines in stock can be bought and drunk here, or purchased for takeaway enjoyment.

The food offering leans into Mediterranean and European farmhouse traditions – and plays exceedingly well with the wines on offer. Eaters can expect dishes in the style of clams vinaigrette, fritto misto and linguini alla Genovese. The food offering suits both drop-in snacking and special-occasion dining. And not even the roar of passing traffic can dissuade diners from wanting to bags a table out on William Street.

As far as wine-bar-ownership credentials go, Wines of While’s proprietors have an impressive shared CV. Van Beem runs a wine-import business and regularly travels to Europe to meet producers and taste wines. Pegrum, meanwhile, is an enthusiastic writer whose work explores food, culture and art.