Lola Underground brings the spirit of its Dunsborough sibling Lady Lola to the CBD – only now, it’s in the form of a basement bar with a lighter, more welcoming feel.

Plush blue banquettes, tropical greenery and curated art replace the old-school drama of the former home of Halford and Pooles Temple in the State Buildings, creating a space that’s polished but not pretentious.

Expect a European-leaning menu of finely tuned small plates – oysters, terrine, truffled toasties – designed for grazing.

The drinks program is equally considered, with stirred-only classics like Negronis, spritzes and a briny signature Martini, alongside cava and vermouth.