Move over maximalism, dopamine dressing and logomania, fashion is in a new era – the unassuming luxury of the “quiet” kind. The term “quiet luxury” is currently at the centre of the zeitgeist. It’s the cast of Succession, where the characters’ penchant for understated indulgence speaks of power and privilege. It’s Gwyneth Paltrow’s recent courtroom wardrobe that consisted of creamy knitwear, perfectly cut coats and utilitarian boots.
While the definition of luxury is ever-changing, right now the fashion set is forgoing the flashy, more-is-more sentiment and instead embracing the classics – more expert cuts and minimalism, less extravagance. Arguably similar to the concept of a capsule wardrobe, those with a pared-back approach to wardrobe curation will already be familiar with the tropes of this trend, favouring thoughtful, cornerstone pieces that transcend the retail cycle. To channel it, park the statement staples and “ludicrously capacious” branded bags for now – and go for elevated essentials from local labels that whisper “if you know, you know”.
A sharp shirt
A timeless, well-cut shirt is the cornerstone of a tidy outfit. It’s the blank canvas on which to tuck, layer, and hang your impeccably tailored trousers and coat on. Crisp fabrics are key here, and local label Kowtow does this well. Its signature Daily shirt combines the classic fit and flare of 100 per cent fairtrade organic cotton with natural shell buttons. When a simple white shirt might feel too stark, the brand’s James shirt comes in a deep green stripe. As the base layer of any outfit, natural fibres are essential for both breathability and utility. Papa Clothing offers a thoughtfully considered edit of linen and cotton poplin shirting – our pick for the season ahead is its khaki, box-cut, short-sleeved Te Tai Tokerau shirt, named after the birthplace of its designer.
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When it comes to quiet luxury, a sleek skirt speaks volumes. Forget the playful nature of a miniskirt and elongate your silhouette with an ankle-skimming version. While silks and satins are always a great staple – like this blue bias-cut Elle skirt from Juliette Hogan — midiskirts in textiles like wool-blend suiting, cotton drill and jersey are having a bigger moment. Kate Sylvester explores the trend with the work-and-play appropriate leatherette Winnie skirt, available in black, lilac or latte.
Tailored trousers
No matter the trend, perfectly tailored trousers are a sound investment that withstand any fashion cycle. Go classic with Wellington-based designer James Bush’s menswear-inspired ’20s trouser, made from a heavy wool gabardine blend. They have deep pleat detailing and a generous rise. Design duo Harris Tapper’s best-selling Irving trouser combines polish and ease, with its fluid wide leg and elasticated waist. Mina’s elegant and effortless approach to tailored trousers is evident every season, and its Muse pant is a fashion favourite with a fitted high rise and perfect pleating.
Knits to layer
As Gwyneth proved in the Utah civil court, sleek and sharp silhouettes are best paired with soft, preppy knits. Offset a crisp collar or tailored waistband with a high quality knit and look for 100 per cent natural blends such as silk, cotton, merino and cashmere. For cashmere knitwear in every cut imaginable, browse Laing’s thoughtfully curated offering. Its Jasper cashmere T-shirt is a sound investment for a year-round staple knit. Shjark’s 100 per cent merino Margaux top is understated and chic with its off-the-shoulder neckline. Standard Issue’s cult-favourite tulle tops make for an interesting lesson in layering – with its sheer, super-fine supima cotton, the cotton tulle crop top is the perfect accompaniment to any layered look.
A great coat
While it’ll be more of an investment than other garments on this list, a great coat is the hero of any autumn and winter ensemble – one that’s expertly tailored to fit, with a strong silhouette and classic detailing. Look for fabric blends containing natural fibres like wool for warmth and weight. Long, sharp lapels, welt flap pockets, and darts and pleats all provide shape – see Acne Studios’ pared-back Melange wool coat from Workshop. Versatility is everything when it comes to your go-to outer layer. You don’t always need to opt for neutrals – the warm mahogany tone of Camilla & Marc’s Orion tailored coat is an eye-catching but timeless hue for cold weather layering.
A leather carry-all bag
An overtly branded designer tote bag is simply not it – and Tom Wambsgans’s scathing commentary in Succession season four says it all. If there’s one thing that Kiwi designers understand, it’s the importance of an everyday leather carry-all bag. They channel luxury as it should be – simple and refined aesthetics crafted in luxurious leathers. Deadly Ponies’ Mr Breton tote bag exudes luxury with no more than a simple external pocket, a leather strap fastening and subtle brass findings. Camilla & Marc’s chocolate brown Como tote is another chic (and even more minimal) option. For those in need of a visual pick-me-up, Georgia Jay’s Torta bag in butter is an oversized take on the classic baguette bag that’s sure to elevate any ensemble.