Sukhumvit Soi 38
This Pulteney Street restaurant’s identity used to be based on being “that yellow-and-black Thai restaurant next to Hungry Jack’s”. But a suburban, fast and cheap takeout joint this is not, and its owners decided the food being served here deserved to be represented by a sleeker interior. So in September 2018 Sukhumvit Soi 38 was made over. Now the slimline space is almost unrecognisable from its former self.
A calming two-tone paint job – half buckwheat, half white – flows down to neutral-coloured tiles. Suspended above simple timber furniture, rooster cages handcrafted in Thailand serve as light fixtures. The tableware (sourced primarily across Southeast Asia) adds hints of pale blue, grey and white.
While Sukhumvit Soi 38 takes its name from Bangkok’s famous street-food market, head chef Terry Intarakhamhaeng’s menu zooms in on Thailand’s six regions. Much like a wine list, each dish’s region of origin is listed below it.
And unlike a Westernised banquet menu, each region’s snacks, salads and mains arrive at the table (and are meant to be enjoyed) together, in one course. Matched wines align with the region’s main flavour profile.
Intarakhamhaeng’s masters in environmental sustainability comes through in the menu. Two southern-style dishes reduce the restaurant’s reliance on farmed meat: there’s a goat curry with betel leaf, and a take on oxtail curry that subs in an eight-hour-cooked kangaroo tail.
But there is also the usual pad thai and green curry, although the spring rolls are stuffed – quite fancily – with lobster.
Sukhumvit Soi 38 54 Pulteney Street, Adelaide (08) 8223 5472
Mon to Fri 11.30am–2.30pm, 5.30pm–10pm
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