Owners of COOH Curl Curl Rachel Trevarton and Scarlett Forward, use the extra space at their Alexandria site for coffee roasting, fish curing, cake baking, kombucha on tap and a list of local beers and Australian wines. But the same organic, wholefood philosophy of the original Curl Curl cafe is present at the Alexandria version.

The menu includes a few Alexandria-specific specialities. The tuna steak burger (there’s no steak element, the tuna is cut into small rectangles) uses tuna that is perfectly pink-centred and crusted around the edge. It’s joined by a toss of purple cabbage and a dousing of avo-aoili and jalapeno salsa. The bun is a soft, fluffy sphere of toasted brown bread.

The cured ocean trout comes arranged in a garden of multicoloured beetroot wedges, feta mouse and a surprisingly hardy mixed-seed cracker. The trout is cured for two days with beetroot, sugar and the zest and juice of oranges by Anders Knopp, the Swedish chef. On the breakfast menu there’s a cheese-covered Mexican shakshuka with sides of guac and sour cream, and for lunch there’s a textural Moroccan spiced salad with chermoula spiced lamb, currants, tomatoes and mint-infused yoghurt.

With light woods, marble tops and surrounding windows the owners have created a fresh and open space – it feels like sitting in a design studio built in the centre of a park.