If you’ve been to Federation Square you probably know Chocolate Buddha. Angela Mathioudakis’s Japanese dining hall has sat proudly on the corner of the public square since 2003. But after a six-month hiatus and an architecturally led refurbishment, the restaurant has reopened new and improved with not one, but two high-tech sushi trains.

The revamp saw Mathioudakis join forces again with award-winning architect and host of Grand Designs Australia, Peter Maddison, who worked with Mathioudakis on her other Fed Square ventures, Taxi and Transport.

Maddison describes the new diner as “a restaurant built for a culinary and aesthetic experience”. This iteration definitely feels more spacious and light than its predecessor thanks to Victorian ash finishings that intersect with handmade Japanese tiles, and raw cement sheeting softened by traditional noren (Japanese fabric dividers). The interior is minimalist, but also textured and detailed.

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While the capacity hasn’t changed – it still seats 180 – the windows have been pushed back several metres to create more space. Long communal tables have been swapped out for three zoned dining areas: communal, intimate (for two to four people) and individual.

Down the middle of it all runs an impressive stainless-steel sushi train, but more exciting is the “bullet train” which sits above the regular one. It’s a single track line that shoots hot izakaya-style dishes – such as a smoky sweet potato and pork croquette stuffed with gouda – straight from the kitchen to your seat.

Head chef Alex Bazar has been with Chocolate Buddha for over four years, and is now joined by head sushi chef Angelito Bautista, formerly of Ichi Ni Nana and Nobu. His latest creation is called Buddha Fire, an inside-out roll of seared kingfish, asparagus, a fiery sauce made with scallops, and togarashi (a spicy Japanese seasoning).

The menu is expansive, divided into sushi, izakaya, donburi and ramen. And it’s fairly dietary-friendly, too, with plenty of gluten-free and vegan options.

Fans of the old menu will still find ramen with medium-rare salmon, pork broth and sweet corn; ocean-trout nigiri; and tempura pumpkin rolls on the line-up. But some interesting new players have now entered the game, such as black cod moromisoyaki (the fish is chargrilled and topped with moromi miso); kingfish sashimi with jalapenos and yuzu-soy dressing; and Korean fried chicken with a sweet-spicy glaze. There are also some kid-friendly options, including plain ramen noodles in broth and teriyaki chicken nori rolls with mayo.

Bento-box-style lunch trays all come with miso, salad, white or brown rice, green vegetables with sesame, and avocado handrolls – plus your choice of pork curry, deep-fried eggplant, salmon teriyaki and more. There’s a kid’s bento, too.

For dessert, try the silky baked yuzu cheesecake or the chocolate spring rolls with salted-miso dipping sauce.

On the drinks list there’s a Yuzu Sour, a Chai White Russian and a Martini with lychee and pink grapefruit; a dangerously drinkable Kinmon X3 Rose Junmai sake made using ancient red rice and malt; and a smooth, unfiltered Kizan Sanban from Chikuma Nishiki in Nagano, Japan.

Chocolate Buddha
Federation Square, Melbourne
(03) 9654 5688

Hours:
Sun & Mon 11.30am–9.30pm
Tue to Sat 11.30am–10pm

chocolatebuddha.com.au