Little Lagos founder Adetokunboh “Ade” Adeniyi has been an advocate for Nigerian food for a while. First in Sydney, at his pop-up turned restaurant in Enmore, then in Brisbane, and finally at an indefinite pop-up here in Melbourne.

The Fitzroy venue sits on the rooftop above Oko Rooftop and Cafe. It's a hub by and for the African diaspora, extending its exuberant, easy brand of hospitality outward. On the menu, you’ll find Little Lagos’s best-selling goat stew, which has been around since the diner’s early days. The meat is slow-cooked till tender in a vibrant sauce of blended tomatoes, red capsicum, onion and habanero peppers.

On an equal footing with the meaty options are the black-eye beans: a soft, hearty and chilli-kissed plant-based dish, best enjoyed with a side of fried plantains. There’s also fufu (pounded yam), “puff puff” doughnut balls, and flaky Nigerian meat pies stuffed with ground beef, potatoes and carrots.

For those embedded in the West African community, this food can feel like a familiar hug. For others, it may be a new experience, piquing curiosity and conversation.