Glebe Point Diner

When Glebe Point Diner first appeared on the Sydney scene back in 2007, it was at the height of the molecular gastronomy explosion, with foams, gels and soils seemingly dropped onto menus with reckless abandon. In a culinary world awash with tricked-up, science-lab fads, it came as something of a surprise when chef Alex Kearns sent out that first creamy puck of hand-churned butter with wholemeal bread that had been baked onsite that morning, followed up by a simple plate of roast chicken with bread sauce. ‘Thank heavens for the return of home comforts’ was the collective sigh that could be heard around Sydney.

A few years on and it seems we’re still craving the good stuff. A relaxed bistro space of black-and-white striped walls, with welcome splashes of vivid lime green, Glebe Point Diner lends itself equally to lingering lunches (try to nab one of the veranda tables) and fine four-course dinners. That perfectly cooked chicken is still on the menu, though these days it might be served with a chickpea, olive and tomatoe braise. Other stars and stalwarts include a decadent duck liver pate and a generous scotch fillet served with all the trimmings, including the optional indulgence of WA truffle-flecked butter.

Kearns’ assured cooking is backed by switched-on staff and a well-curated wine list, featuring standout drops from both the Old and New World, most of which are available by the glass, carafe or bottle.