In a state flush with destination restaurants, Tasmania’s Van Bone stood tall. But when owners Timothy Hardy and Laura Ducken decided to close their acclaimed restaurant last year, they opened it up to expressions of interest in the hope that like-minded people would take on the lease.

Enter Scottish husband-wife duo Bob Piechniczek and Jillian McInnes, who are carrying on the five-acre site’s culinary legacy with Scottish-inflected diner Oirthir.

Oirthir (say it like “oor-heid” in your thickest Scottish brogue) is the Scottish-Gaelic word for coast. The name is a nod to nearby Marion Bay, but also a strong indicator of the menu at the new restaurant, which draws on the pair’s heritage and classic French techniques.

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“If we were in an old wine bar in Melbourne, I don’t think it would work. But because of the landscape and the ruggedness, and being able to get this kind of produce, it just kind of worked in our favour,” McInnes says of the concept. “No one else is really doing this.”

Oirthir serves a seven-course set lunch for $175 with optional paired wines, Saturday to Monday. Like the former tenants, Piechniczek and McInnes are working closely with suppliers, and will make the most of Tasmania’s wild game and abundant seafood. The island’s wineries and whisky distilleries feature prominently on the drinks list.

Opening menu highlights include the Failte (“Welcome”) plate of Tasmanian Golden Oysters, garden crudités and woodfired soda bread with seaweed butter. And Freycinet blue lip mussels with zucchini kimchi and beurre blanc.

And yes, there is haggis “obviously” says Piechniczek, who’s interpreted Scotland’s iconic offal pudding using lamb from Bangor Vineyard Shed farm, located 15 minutes’ drive from the restaurant.

“Using the whole animal, nose to tail, is what Scottish food is all about,” he says. “It’s very comforting. It’s about trying to use as much as you can from a certain ingredient.”

McInnes also nods to Scotland with her take on the layered Cranachan dessert, made with honey and whisky ice-cream, raspberries and oatmeal.

Every second Friday and Saturday, Oirthir will serve a three-course supper for $75 with local diners in mind. Perhaps steak bearnaise or fish with sauce vierge, and a tart made with berries from the five-acre site’s kitchen garden.

“It’s more of a soft, relaxed approach. Whereas lunch has a bit more refinement, with our signature dishes and matching wine.”

Piechniczek and McInnes trained in Scotland and worked at several of the country’s Michelin-starred restaurants before emigrating to Australia. They’ve spent the last seven years living and working in Melbourne, including a stint as head chef and pastry chef respectively at QT Melbourne.

Now Australian citizens, the pair jumped at the chance to strike out on their own, in a spectacular location that’s “a little bit warmer” than where they started.

“We came [to Tasmania] for a honeymoon in 2019 and there was no going back,” says Piechniczek. “The food scene, the culture and the produce was exactly what we wanted to get involved in.”

Oirthir’s first lunch service is Saturday February 8.

Oirthir
357 Marion Bay Road, Bream Creek

Hours:
Sat to Mon: 12pm and 1.15pm seatings

oirthir.com
@oirthir_restaurant