Pizza master Lucio De Falco serves Neapolitan pizza at his Lucio stores in Darlinghurst and Zetland. The newer Zetland store also has fresh buffalo cheese plates and homemade pasta.

The non-pizza half of the kitchen in Zetland is run by Naples native Ciro Cortese. He’s been toying with De Falco’s family recipes and Italian classics to create a menu of simple pastas. There’s also a do-it-yourself antipasto plate centred on fresh buffalo cheeses De Falco has imported from Campania. There’s buffalo ricotta, smoked mozzarella with a bronze sheen and burratta, a cheese with a cream-like consistency. Order an Italian cocktail to accompany it, some chargrilled vegetables and any of the crimson cured meats you spied hanging near the entrance.