It shouldn’t be surprising that Bondi’s Peppe’s is extremely popular. After all, it’s a cosy eatery serving three types of gnocchi and other delicious handmade pastas. It’s a recipe for success.

That popularity is one of the reasons why owners Grace Watson and Joe Pagliaro made the hard decision to close their lauded plant-based restaurant Paperbark and reopen as Peppe’s Osteria, a larger version of the Bondi original.

This newer Peppe’s offers a contrast to its older sibling’s fun but hectic atmosphere. The larger dining room and quieter neighbourhood gives Osteria a relaxed, moody feel.

It also grants extra time to try out those three types of gnocchi. As at the original Peppe’s, everything on the succinct menu here is vegan – although if you didn’t mention it, a lot of people wouldn’t even notice.

Sauces change regularly, but when Broadsheet last visited our favourites included a superb potato gnocchi bianchi – which tastes buttery and cheesy but isn’t (it’s made using a rich, creamy porcini and cauliflower sauce) – as well as gnocchi with tomato sauce and another with pesto, as well as spaghetti aglio e olio.

There are some sides, salads and seasonal specials, as well as the hugely popular lasagne. There are other trademark Peppe’s features: the decal on the front door, a minimal-intervention wine list and the white curtains.

“It’s going to be the same great value as Bondi – simple and fun dining. If you’re looking to eat more plants in 2020, swing by.”

Paperbark’s last day will be on Saturday January 25. Peppe’s Osteria is slated to open on February 1 at 8/18 Danks Street Waterloo.