Under the direction of Chef Kay Hwang, the Walsh Bay Kitchen takes its place in the Sydney Theatre Company foyer with a renovated glossy black restaurant and bar and a deceptively progressive menu of bistro classics.

Hwang’s Korean heritage comes out in the brown rice bibimbap with braised mushrooms, charred vegetables, pine nuts and chilli paste. Barramundi served with pumpkin puree and a crisp fish cake, the bibimbap, a cylinder of tender lamb neck and Hwang’s pork two ways make up the pre-theatre special menu.

Also on the menu is a thick wedge of salmon on a leaf of rainbow kale. On either side sits a charred orange and a shallow puddle of daikon puree. The charred orange, though difficult to eat, provides a smoky and sweet layer to the subtle daikon flavour.

On the pre-show special is a Mars Bar-inspired mud cake with chocolate crumbs and a bulb of vanilla ice cream. Unfortunately for special order-ers, the regular menu has a dense and spongey orange cake with a moat of fairy floss. Placed on the table next to it is an ambiguous tea pot. Pour it on the cake, it’s full of hot raspberry syrup that melts the fairy floss and makes it even sweeter.

Updated: May 25th, 2016

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