This sandstone and stained-glass building, which dates back to the early 1900s, used to house a cafe and takeaway shop. Now it is The Neilson, close to the promenade under Morton Bay Figs and views of Shark Bay.

The Nielson is part of Sydney restaurant Group (Ripples at Milsons Point, Aqua Dining, Ripples Chowder Bay and Sotto Sopra), and the kitchen is run by co-owner and head chef Jeff Sue.

Menu standouts include the whole-roasted cauliflower, served in a smoked-cheddar fondue, pomegranate seeds and macadamia nuts. And the grilled cabbage, roasted and dressed in a potato vinaigrette, tarragon puree and served with cannellini beans.

The aroma of the grilled split king prawns, served with Italian herbs and anchovy crumb, reaches diners before the plate is on the table. House-made tagliolini with a carrot emulsion, wild mushrooms and black truffle is a reminder of the menu’s Italian origins. The slow-roasted lamb shoulder, a perennial favourite at Ripples at Milsons Point, is also served at The Nielsen. Fish and chips is available at both the restaurant and as takeaway from the kiosk next door.

Mocktails such as the Chamomile Lemonade or Apple and Ginger Cooler suit the light-filled, relaxed setting. The wine list has a selection from Australia, New Zealand, Italy and France.