Thanks to generations of Greek migration there are plenty of eateries in Sydney serving exceptional Greek food. And for decades, Greek-Australian chef Peter Consistis has been behind some of the best, more recently Alpha in Potts Point. Ploos is another of Consistis’s Med-inspired projects, located at the heritage Campell’s Stores in Circular Quay.

While none of the dishes at Ploos are strictly traditional Cretan or Greek-Cypriot, they take inspiration from ingredients and cooking techniques unique to Greece’s South Aegean and Mediterranean islands, and Cyprus. Highlights include dumplings inspired by the flavours of spanakopita; chargrilled octopus with carob glaze; and a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, feta and pickled samphire.

Cocktails are served from an elegant, dark-green marble bar inside the sandstone heritage space, as well as an outdoor bar. You might order a sumac-and-cardamom-infused vodka with brandy muddled with sour cherries; and a walnut Martini made with metrios (sweet Greek coffee). Australian and old world drops are well represented on the wine list.

Teak, leather and a central light fixture of square natural linen, representing “ploos” (sails in Greek), result in a dining room that’s luxurious and inviting. The place to be at Ploos, though, is outdoors, enjoying Sydney’s most iconic view.