The Art Gallery of New South Wales certainly doesn’t lack for things to appreciate. But Matt Moran and Peter Sullivan’s Chiswick at the Gallery takes advantage of a stunning location, building and cultural center and adds to it a place to linger and debrief after a session of art appreciation. This version of Chiswick has less farmhouse ease and more modern Scandinavian style, befitting the light and space of the gallery.

What does translate to the gallery location is a menu that evolves with the seasons to ensure fresh, peak-quality produce at any time of the year. With a menu divided into nibbles, small plates, mains and significant shareable platters – think slow-roasted lamb from the Moran family farm – there’s an emphasis on casual, communal dining.

With wines grouped by descriptions such as “perfumed and dry whites”, “fleshy and bold whites” and “poised and refined reds” there’s no mucking about. You choose your own adventure to pair your meal with.