Mama’s Boy

Surry Hills standing-room-only kebab shop Shwarmama has closed – but in its place is Mama’s Boy, an exciting sandwich shop by the same team.

Co-owners Russell Beard and Mat Lindsay are behind some of the city’s best-loved venues, so it's no surprise this place was an instant hit when it first opened. Beard owns Reuben Hills and Paramount Coffee Project, as well as AP Bakery, which he also runs with Lindsay, the chef behind Ester and Poly.

The Mama’s Boy menu is short and sharp, with three breakfast sandwiches and six lunch options. Expect devilled egg and cheese on potato ciabatta; hash brown and fluffy egg muffins; pistachio pesto and pickled zucchini on a bagel; ooey-gooey patty melts (picture a burger patty smooshed in a cheesy toastie); and the holy grail: hot chicken and gravy rolls, thanks to the chicken rotisserie left behind from Shwarmama.

And that’s just the savoury stuff. AP Bakery treats – including twice-baked macadamia croissants, dark chocolate and toasted buckwheat pastries, and cardamon morning buns (a Mama’s Boy exclusive) – are also available.

Alongside those staples, there’ll be rotating sandwich specials, including falafel rolls and chicken schnitty sangas. Coffee is by Reuben Hills.

After a refurb, the shop now recalls an old Aussie milk bar: retro chequerboard squares and colourful handpainted signage (by Nathan Pickering, who did the signs at The Sunseeker in Byron Bay, and Bondi’s Slow House) evokes the ’50s and ’60s. The old-school design mimics Lindsay’s menu, with its comforting hint of nostalgia.