Pizza al Taglio

5:30pm - 9:00pm
102-104 Albion St Surry Hills 2010

The pizza at Pizza al Taglio is not defined by regionality or tradition, but is playful with toppings.

There are pizzas with pureed pea, cream-like buffalo cheese and smoked turkey; creamed cannellini beans, tofu, cauliflower, pumpkin puree and black sesame; and slow-cooked lamb, ricotta and mint. And there's are three with vegan cheese.

But it’s the pizza base that is most remarkable. Former owner Enrico Sgarbossa was once a flour technician for Molino Dellagiovanna (an Italian flour brand). And he's clearly passed his knowledge on: new owner and head chef Silvio Groppelli worked with Sgarbossa, and the pizzas here are still just as good. If not better: in 2021 Al Taglio was awarded three slices by influential Italian food publication, Gambero Rosso.

For Pizza al Taglio there are two kinds of dough. For the takeaway lunch slices Al Taglio uses a hybridised barley and semolina flour. For the full pizzas served at dinner it’s a type-one Italian wheat flour similar to wholemeal in roughness. That’s combined with the in-house biga (a pre-fermented baker’s yeast starter), proved for 24 to 48 hours and baked in the high-tech electric oven. The product is incredibly refined – soft, light and slightly crunchy at the base and at the very edge of the crust.

As you might expect, the dough master is handy with a few other Italian baked goods, most notably his perfectly soft and crisp focaccia, and his cloud-like savoury bignè (profiterole-like baked puffs). There’s also a small list of organic wines and beer from Italian craft brewer Labi and Sydney Brewery.

Updated: January 24th, 2022

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