Ortzi, a venture from the team behind Italian trattoria Sagra , is based on south-western Basque-style French cuisine.

It’s less Parisian and more Spanish, a lot more rustic.

Salted-cod omelettes, croquettes and lots of cider are staples that won’t leave the menu at Ortzi. The rest of the repertoire has been designed in a similar vein to Sagra – based around a daily market adventure, and pasture-raised beasts delivered from Feather and Bone..

The menu has been divided into snacks (best eaten solo at the five-seat bar), followed by more substantial dishes to share. For the former, look to the appetiser menu (a pintxo menu in Spain) for marinated anchovies, beef-and-pork terrine, and goat’s curd gougère (choux-pastry buns). These one-or-two-bite meals go well with booze – cider being the most Basque choice.

Off the bar and on the dining table, swap out the cider for a Basque white and the omelette for charcoal-grilled or woodfired oven-roasted meats.

The setting is simple and old fashioned in the way many trendy new restaurants are – with wooden furniture (handmade by Otto and Lanuza), unadorned walls and moody lighting.