Goryon San is a renowned Tokyo izakaya serving Hakata-style kushiyaki – a kind of Japanese cooking where meat is marinated, skewered and grilled over charcoal. At its Surry Hills outpost, it’s doing more of the same.

Like all Japanese grilled-meat styles, kushiyaki is designed to be eaten while drinking, meaning you should start with a tap beer, followed by a couple of skewers, and some cabbage or enoki mushrooms wrapped in pork belly (a Hakata specialty).

As the night progress, order Wagyu sirloins and skewers of gooey grilled mozzarella, and either a cocktail or a shochu (distilled spirit), and sake to finish.

There’s not a huge variety outside the extensive range of grilled meats and seafood, and skewers. There’s a small selection of salads, some edamame options (truffle salt or smoked chilli), and a tonkotsu-based hotpot loaded with gyoza.