Giuls

After leaving her role as an area manager at Rockpool Dining Group, Giulia Treuner knew she was ready to set out on her own. She managed to convince Esmeralda Perez (ex-head chef at Carbon Mexican Woodfire) to join her, and now the pair are running their first eatery together: Giuls, a modern Italian restaurant staffed by a nearly all-female team.

Perez developed the menu in consultation with Florence-born chef Alessio Rago (Manly Pavilion’s former executive chef), who trained at Michelin-starred Sita in Milan, and whose Tuscan roots have helped shape the dishes served here.

You might start with fluffy house-made focaccia topped with smoked rosemary, and arancini covered in fine shavings of smoked mozzarella and truffle aioli. Follow with antipasti like kingfish crudo with blood orange, finger lime and basil oil; or burrata with burnt figs and vincotto.

But really, you’re here for the handmade pastas. Try the signature squid-ink fettuccine with crab, cherry tomatoes and chilli, or conchiglie with pancetta and taleggio stirred through creamy vodka sauce.

Bottomless brunch on weekends involves 90 minutes of bottomless Aperol Spritz, Espresso Martini, house wine or house beer, alongside an antipasto board with focaccia, arancini balls, olives and the pasta of the day.

Named for the nickname given to Treuner by her grandfather, Giuls occupies a 50-square-metre space on Surry Hills’ buzzing Crown Street. It features an industrial-style interior with high ceilings and polished concrete floors. The floor-to-ceiling windows open to an outdoor terrace offering plenty of al fresco seating shaded by large red and white umbrellas.