In 2020, Maurice Terzini (Icebergs, Cicciabella) and Terzini-era chef Monty Koludrovic both left the Dolphin.

Now things have changed a little bit. For the first time since the pub was overhauled in 2016, you can order every dish on the Dolphin menu no matter where you are in the building. Burgers in the dining room? Go ahead. A 400-gram rib-eye in the public bar? Not a problem.

Expect light dishes such as grilled octopus salsa verde, burrata with extra-virgin olive oil and chardonnay dressing, and kingfish crudo. Toppings on the pub’s popular pizza menu still lean traditional – marinara, primavera and capricciosa among them. The Covid-era burger menu has stuck around, too.

Dishes that were previously confined to the more upmarket dining room can now be enjoyed anywhere. Think linguine with prawns and XO, pappardelle ragu, pork cotoletta, and herb-roasted chicken cacciatore.

The unique interiors are unchanged. Some walls are bare. Others are clad in wrinkled fabric, a technique inspired by Bulgarian artist Christo. Upstairs, black-and-white graffiti-style couches by artist-in-residence Beni Single are wrapped in plastic; and highlights by installation artist Tracey Deep abound. It’s a look you won’t soon forget.