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February 2024 update: Crown Street wine bar and restaurant Bartolo closed suddenly last week after five years. Owner Jared Merlino (Kittyhawk, The Lobo, Big Poppa’s) took over the venue in 2020, relaunching the all-day Italian diner and cafe as a wine bar. While no public comment has been made, the Bartolo Instagram has been set to private and the website reads: “Bartolo Wine Room is now closed. Thank you for all your support over the past five-plus years. Come see us at Big Poppa’s for all your pasta and wine needs.”

Before Jared Merlino took on Bartolo in 2020, it was very much in league with Sydney’s old-school Italian joints. But then “caffe” was dropped from the name, the coffee machine was evicted, and now the places feels more in step with Merlino’s other venues Kittyhawk, The Lobo, and late-night favourite Big Poppa’s.

Former Big Poppa’s executive chef Liam Driscoll – the man responsible for that restaurant’s popular lamb ragu pappardelle – was behind the opening menu here. You might start with gnocco fritto and anchovy butter; and scampi with preserved lemon and caper butter, fermented chilli and crispy curry leaves.

Pastas are house-made (Bartolo shares a pasta machine with Big Poppa’s), with past hits such as spaghetti with Italian sausage, clams and Calabrian hot sauce; and curly mafaldine tossed with zucchini, herbs, chilli, lemon and Parmigiano Reggiano.

The space has been painted a moody dark blue, and shelving has been added to house the wine collection, which sits at around 200 bottles and counting.

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Updated: February 12th, 2024

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