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Before Jared Merlino took on Bartolo in 2020, it was very much in league with Sydney’s old-school Italian joints. But then “caffe” was dropped from the name, the coffee machine was evicted, and now the places feels more in step with Merlino’s other venues Kittyhawk , The Lobo , and late-night favourite Big Poppa’s.

Former Big Poppa’s executive chef Liam Driscoll – the man responsible for that restaurant’s popular lamb ragu pappardelle – was behind the opening menu here. You might start with gnocco fritto and anchovy butter; and scampi with preserved lemon and caper butter, fermented chilli and crispy curry leaves.

Pastas are house-made (Bartolo shares a pasta machine with Big Poppa’s), with past hits such as spaghetti with Italian sausage, clams and Calabrian hot sauce; and curly mafaldine tossed with zucchini, herbs, chilli, lemon and Parmigiano Reggiano.

The space has been painted a moody dark blue, and shelving has been added to house the wine collection, which sits at around 200 bottles and counting.