The outside of Butter looks like any fancier-than-average sneaker store, but then there’s two bottles of Dom Pérignon in the window. After a double take you see, through the tinted glass and sneaker shelves, fried chicken, soft serve and sparkling wine. It’s not a sneaker store, a restaurant or a bar. It’s something entirely new and different.

Really, it’s a collection of things that Julian Cincotta (Rockpool Bar & Grill and Nomad), Mo Moubayed and Paul Flynn (Thievery in Glebe) love. It treads the line of being gimmicky, but doesn’t tip over it because everything is taken so seriously.

The chicken is brined, heavily battered and, as a result, crunchy and juicy. It’s half drizzled in hot sauce, like a stylised blend of the drier American style and sticky Korean fried chicken. It comes in a sneaker-labelled shoebox, or in an unashamedly buttery, disproportionately chicken-heavy sandwich.

The menu also includes chips, corn, whole pickles, slaw, tofu nuggets and soft serve. The chips pack umami flavour from a fermented mushroom salt Cincotta created. Alongside champagne on the drinks list – mostly high-end – there is a rotation of boozy slushies and a few foreign beers, including that US hipster favourite, Pabst Blue Ribbon.