Surry Hills may be awash with great wine bars, but 40 Res still stands out. Chef-owner Josh Raine and his partner and co-owner Keliann Zellman have created a warm and compact spot, down the bottom of Reservoir Street, with a food menu well worth seeking out.

Raine was formerly the executive chef at the legendary Tetsuya’s, and that experience is on deft display at 40 Rain. Don’t be fooled by the simple-sounding dishes. The fish fingers here are made from a coral trout mousse, accompanied by a mayonnaise made with trout skin and bones. As for those straightforward chicken croquettes? They’re filled with a rendered chicken skin bechamel. It’s naturally low-waste, done in a way that doesn’t pat itself on the back.

The menu changes around, but there’s always a pasta or a risotto on offer. Past editions have included a casarecce with cacio e pepe foam and a prawn bisque risotto.

Sommelier Lauren Baker has written a balanced and approachable list filled with classic Old World styles and Aussie drops. It translates to a spot that’s begging for a post-work stop-in. But don’t be surprised if you end up hanging around for hours.