Though it still flaunts its landmark white facade and rooftop stallion, longstanding Surry Hills pub The White Horse is almost unrecognisable today. An overhaul by general manager Craig Hemmings (ex- Quay , Chin Chin and Bistro Guillaume ) and a veteran hospo team in 2024 saw the pub transformed, with an elegant dining room on the ground floor and a leafy terrace bar upstairs.

Leading the former is executive chef and partner Jed Gerrard (formerly of acclaimed Perth restaurant Wildflower ), who’s modern Australian menu works to a brief of affordable luxury. At the time of opening, highlights such as the smoked Ora King salmon and dry-aged Aylesbury duck sat below the $50 mark. Native ingredients are a focus, and there’s a notable set-menu offering for the vegetarian crowd.

On the drinks side, top winemaker and sommelier James Audas has paid the same attention to affordability with the Horse’s 120-strong wine list, with plenty of bottles priced below $80. Michael Chiem of leading Sydney bar PS40 has designed the ambitious cocktail program, and employs native ingredients in line with Gerrard’s dishes.