When you get to the counter to order, look up. The oven you can see glowing with scarlet wood chips, and that emits the smell of baking bagels, was built by Canadian stonemasons. The guy with the tattoo sleeves hand-rolling each bagel learned his craft from the head baker at Montreal’s famous St-Viateur.

Dave Young and Mark Treviranus (the other co-owner) are the first bakers in Sydney to take on the Montreal style, which differs from New York bagels in that they are cooked in a wood-fired oven, and are thinner and sweeter (they’re boiled in slightly honeyed water).

The toppings, though, are not authentic at all. There’s the Queen P, with wattleseed, macadamia and peanut butter and crunchy bits of salted macadamia brittle. The Yid Life Crisis has wood-fired chicken (from the bagel oven), charred mashed avocado, kaffir lime and native mountain pepper. The closest thing to a traditional topping is the Not So Salmon with smoked trout, trout caviar, cream cheese, pickles, red onion, capers and dill. There is also a chef's special; a different chef will come in and do a bagel each month.

The bagel toppings come from Oakridge Winery’s Joanna Barrett, who was recently foraging with René Redzepi for Noma Australia. Gluten-free Doughnuts come from Nutie Donuts (which also does some vegan varieties), and coffee is made in collaboration with Sensory Lab.

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Updated: November 28th, 2019

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